Best Corded Drills Under $75 (2026)

A 7 amp universal motor is the heart of this drill, and universal motors are the standard in budget corded tools because they spin fast, run on household current and are cheap to build. The listing states a 1/2 inch capacity in steel, which is a realistic limit for a drill at this power class and a useful figure because steel is the hardest common material a homeowner drills. The streamlined body is shorter than many older corded drills, which helps in cramped spots such as inside a cabinet or between rafters.

Compared with the SKIL HD182001 at 7.5 amps, this model gives up the hammer switch and a quarter amp of motor, and gains simplicity. If your work is drilling pilot holes, driving long deck screws and boring through metal brackets, you will not miss hammer action. If you plan masonry anchors, step up to a hammer model, because a plain drill clogs and overheats in brick.

Ownership is easy. Universal motors use carbon brushes, which wear slowly and can be replaced if the tool starts to spark or lose power. Wrap the cord loosely instead of tightly around the body, since sharp bends near the strain relief are where cords fail first. Store it dry, because the steel chuck and gear surfaces pick up rust in a damp garage, and check the chuck for wobble if you drop it. One small habit pays off: drill a pilot hole before driving a long screw into hardwood, because the 7 amp motor will stall where a bigger tool would bull through, and a stalled universal motor heats quickly.

A hammer mode adds a ratcheting action behind the chuck, so the bit taps forward as it spins, and that tapping is what lets a carbide masonry bit chip through brick and block. This SKIL pairs a 7.5 amp motor with a mode switch, so one tool serves plain drilling and light masonry work. The keyed chuck is a point of difference: a chuck key tightens the jaws with leverage, which holds large bits more firmly than finger-tightening alone.

Against the DR560, the SKIL costs a bit more and weighs more, but the hammer switch makes it more versatile. Against the Hammerhead HAHD075, it has a keyed chuck instead of a keyless one, which holds bits tighter under heavy load but is slower to change. If you drill ten concrete anchors a year, this is the tool; if you drill mostly wood, the extra weight is a tax you do not need.

Ownership: a keyed chuck depends on that key, so tape it to the cord or keep it in a labeled spot. Leave the mode switch in drill mode for wood and metal, because the hammer cams wear when engaged for no reason. Use sharp carbide masonry bits and let the tool work, since leaning on a dull bit heats the bit and the gearbox without speeding up the hole. Between jobs, hang it by the handle or store it in a case, since the gearbox grease settles when the tool sits on its nose for months.

This drill uses the same cam-style hammer mechanism as the SKIL, but with a keyless metal chuck that tightens by hand. That choice trades the grip of a key for speed, and it suits users who change between a masonry bit and a twist bit several times in a session. The variable-speed trigger lets you start a hole slowly so the bit does not skate across the surface, which matters on tile and smooth steel.

The included six-piece bit set is a real value at this price tier, since many corded drills ship with nothing. Compared with the SKIL HD182001, which offers the same 7.5 amps and a keyed chuck, the Hammerhead gives up a little bit-holding force for convenience. Compared with the DR560, it adds a hammer mode and 0.5 amp of motor power.

Ownership: retighten a keyless chuck after the first minute of hammer drilling, because vibration can walk it loose. Replace the starter bits when they dull, since the supplied set is for light use. Keep the mode switch clean, and coil the cord loosely. Treat the bundled bits as a sampler: they cover small pilot holes, but a set of quality carbide masonry bits is the first upgrade worth making.

The listing describes a top speed of 3,100 RPM and a lock-on trigger for sustained use, which suits long jobs such as drilling a row of holes in a deck frame. The keyed chuck holds bits firmly, and the 7 amp motor matches the DR560. A renewed listing means the unit has been inspected and refurbished by a seller, not bought new.

That condition is the main tradeoff. You get a recognized brand at a lower cost, but warranty terms and cosmetic wear vary, so read the seller's return policy before ordering. Compared with the SKIL HD182001, it offers less motor power but a similar chuck and hammer capability.

Ownership: inspect the cord, chuck and brushes when it arrives, and test the hammer switch and lock-on trigger on scrap. If anything feels gritty or loose, return it. A refurbished drill that checks out is a good way to stretch a tight budget. Ask the seller whether a cord, chuck key and manual are included, because missing pieces are the usual disappointment with refurbished tools.